Surfing

I love surfing. I started last year and I had a nine foot board.It was all mad out of fiberglass. It is easier with a bigger board to not nose dive.I liked it but i didn't want to get hurt by the big board.But then this year I started again and I wanted more of a challenge so I got a six foot board that is foam on the top and on the bottom is fiberglass. It is harder but the secret is to stand up faster. The biggest wave I have ridden is 6-7 feet. It was awesome I was at the top of the wave I stood up and then I was going so fast it was hard to keep balance but the secret to balance is to have you feet farther apart and then I was ahead of the wave and then the wave came again and I went close to the shore and I jumped off. I have a wet suit it helps a lot, it lets a little water in and then the water gets warm inside of you.